Brief guide of the history

BARGA, an ancient castle of Longobard origin, surrounded by a wall with three entrances, was often besieged between 1200 and 1360 by the Lucchesiani and Pisans. In 1436-37 it was attacked by the mercenaries of Piccinino who were under the pay of the Viscounts of Milan in their war against Florence, to whom Barga had belonged since 1341. Barga and its territories followed the ruling of the Florentine state until 1859. Barga differs from other Lucca castles in that even when under the protection of Florence, it was governed by an elected party. This independence was recognised by the Countess Matilda of Canossa, Margravia of Tuscan, and Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire, Frederick 1st.

The Cathedral

The cathedral is built in four different periods. The first part goes back to before the year 1000. In the 12th century the first addition was built in the roman style with small windows in Egyptian alabaster from which filters a golden light. In the 13th century a second addition was added with Gothic characteristics such as the oval windows. With the realisation of the tow chapels and the choir box (1500-1600) the third addition completes the actual construction of the temple. The actual front of the church, which originally was one of the side walls, is of suggestive beauty. It is built in symmetrical travertine bricks known as "alberese of Barga". Between 1927 and 1939, with the aid of the State, the blocks were removed one by one, numbered and replaced for reinforcement. The main door has an arch above it sculptured in a leaves design, with underneath, a beam in base relief, depicting a grape gathering scene. On either side of the door there is a column where on top can be seen two lions symbolising the strength of Faith. A double row of small arches decorates the outside wall. In the capitals figures, animals and friezes have been sculptured: At the side door which a marble faces the terrace of the Podestà, there is a base relief of Biduino (1200) showing a family scene. The inside is composed by three naves. The entrance forms part of the original 9th century church. On the right hand side is the baptesimal font in white marble. Above the font, on the wall, is a picture of St. Christopher, patron saint of Barga, painted by the Lucca painter Tofanelli (17th century). On one of the columns near the font is a fresco of the face of St. Lucy (15th century). Inside there are also four fonts of the 12th and 13th century. Half the church is divided, transversally, by blocks of jasper from Barga. The same jasper is used for the walls of the Prince’s Chape in the church of St.Lorenzo in Florence.

The pulpit is believed to have been designed and made by Guido Bigarelli of Como (13th century). Four columns of red marble hold up the rectangular pulpit. Two of these reset lions, symbolising the strength of Christianity, with one lion holding down a dragon –the symbol of the evil- and the other a man, who with one hand caresses the lion and with the other stabs it –symbol of the heretics. The two rear columns rest one on the back of a dwarf –representing the pagan world- the other on the floor. At the rear of the pulpit is a design of the prophet Isaiah, announcing the coming of the Messiah; on the side facing the main door are sculptured the Annunciation and the birth of Christ; on the third side the Adoration of the Three Kings and scenes from the Gospel. The choir box is in a large alcove with overhead the huge wooden statue of St. Christopher which is believed to have been sculptured roundabout the year 1000. High above this alcove is an oval glass window from the 14th century showing the Holy Family, probably taken from man original design by Lorenzo di Gredi in the Convent of St. Elizabeth. In the Holy Sacrament Chapel there is, above the altar, a painting of the Holy Virgin with St. Sebastian and St. Roche on either side, protectors against pestilence. This painting was found badly neglected in the Church of St. Francis. It was commissioned in 1527 by the people of Barga during a severe epidemic of cholera. On the same chapel walls one can also admire on the left the ciborium of the Holy Oils and on the right the Adoration of the Child Jesus. Above the 6th century altar in Our Lady’s Chapel is a painting of St. Joseph, St. Roche and St. Anthony –the background of which shows Barga in the 5th century. In the painting is also inserted a 13th century wooden plaque with a fresco of Our Lady of the Mill. On the right wall there is a crucifix in the Giotto style.

The Cathedral Square

At the far end of the left hand side is the Pretorian Palace, one time residence of the Commissioners and Podesta, who were sent to Barga by the Florentine nobility. Under the loggierra there are many coats of arms which belonged to the Barga governors. By the small wall of the steps leading to the underground prisons, today out of use, one can see the measures used in those days for weighing bushels, half bushels and the "braccio Barghigiano". From the square, 408 meters above sea level, visitors can admire the marvellous panorama. In front can be seen the Apuane going from the Pizzorne to the Pisanino mountains and from the right the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. In the valley below flows the river Serchio. From the cathedral belltower the hours ring out. These bells inspired Giovanni Pascoli to write his poem "The Hours of Barga".

The College of St. Elizabeth

The present college, which can board one hundred students, was originally an ancient convent of the Clarisse order, founded in 1456 by the monk Blessed Michael of Barga. Inside there is a Robbian polychrome representing the Assumption by Giovanni della Robbia. On the wall is a 4th century wooden crucifix and a round Robbian polychrome showing the Madonna and Child surrounded by fruit and leaves.

The Church and Convent of St. Francis outside the wall

The Convent and church of St. Francis were built in the middle of the 15th century by the monk Blessed Michael of Barga. At the entrance is an enclosed cloister. In the church can be seen some splendid Robbian works: the Nativity, the stigmatise of St. Francis at Verna, stone simulacrums of St. Anthony the Abbott, St. Andrew and also the Assumption. In October 1965 it was visited privately by the King and Queen of Sweeden. Near the church –arising from an ancient lazar house -is a hospital. With the help of Doctor Pietro Talinucci and the people of Barga from here and abroad, it was become today one of the most modern and well equipped hospitals in the Serchio Valley.

The Florentine influence in Barga

The hill, on which Barga is built, and whose origin is historically indeterminable, is called "Remeggio". The roads and streets are in accordance with the topographical necessities and for defence in time war. The old houses, many times repaired, around the Arringo, possessed courtyards with gardens and artesian wells. From the middle ages until the beginning of the 19th century Barga was an important commercial centre communicating with Florence by way of a pass through the Pistoiese mountains. Barga has three rivers: the Corsonna, Ania and Loppora which flow into the river Serchio. The power of these rivers was applied to motivate the various mills: oil mills, paper mills and even mills where wool and silk were spun. Being voluntarily under Florentine ruling Barga was allowed many privileges, amongst which no duty on imports and exports was paid. The commercial richness of Barga at the time is shown in the many impressive palaces built during the 15th, 16th and 17th century. Among these the most important palace is the one which belonged to Count Pancrazi and now used as the Town Hall.

The Balduini palace in Piazza Garibaldi was bombed in December 1944 and partially destroyed; the Marquis Angeli palace, recently restored, in Piazza Angelio (once Piazza S. Maria Novella, then Piazza Pietro Angelio or as generally termed "Aiaccia" or Aia). In the same square, lovely and characteristic, is the Talinucci palace, where until a few years ago there was a branch of the Bank of the Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze, and which is now the seat of the Pro Loco, and also the Groppi house built on the remains of an ancient tower. In the square can be seen the Florentine influence and culture. Other palaces of this period can be seen on both sides of the Via di Mezzo, the street which goes from the Royal Gate to the Macchiaia gate. (The Grand Dukes of Tuscany were frequently entertained by the nobles of the Bertacchi palace).

All the old houses of Barga "castello" have beautiful front doors –sculptured above in stone- and adorned with coats of arms. Half way along the Via di Mezzo can be seen the old Dei Differenti Theatre built in 1600, and expanded in 1700 to three tiers. The acoustic system is perfect. The Barga population, industrious and with many immigrants, have enriched their city with monuments, palaces, villas, social and philanthropic institutions. Illustrious men have honoured their city –among these Pietro Angelio a famous latin scholar, Antonio Mordini (monument on the Bastione) a politician and patriot and Alberto Magri a well known painter. There is also a large library which is kept well up to date.

Castelvecchio Pascoli, Caprone Hills and Pascoli’s House

Giovanni Pascoli and his sister Maria came to Barga the first time in October 1895 from Livorno where he taught at the Liceo . He chose and bought a villa at Castelvecchio where is buried in the chapel next to the house, alongside his sister. In the house there is a collection of his manuscripts, diplomas and books. In the garden one can see the tree planted by the poet. Under a small column is the tomb of his faithful dog Guli. Outside this garden is the Parish Church of Castelvecchio dedicated to St. Nicholas. In front of the church there is a monument, supported by four columns of pink marble, to the sculptor Plinio Nomellini intended originally as a burial place for the poet. It should have been inside the church. It is now dedicated to the victims who fell during the 1st World War. Pascoli was born at St. Mauro of Romagna and died at Bologna on the 6th of April 1912. The body arrived at the station of Fornaci di Barga on the evening of the 9th and was buried temporarily in the local cemetery at 23.30.

Hotel Restaurant ALPINO
Via G. Pascoli
55051 Barga (LUCCA)
Tuscany - ITALY

Tel. +39 0583 723336
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E-Mail: alpino@bargaholiday.com